Montezuma

Montezuma at a glance

Montezuma sits right at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula, where the road runs out of pavement and the forest comes down to the rocks. It started as a remote fishing village, has drawn travelers since the 1980s, and still feels small: a few streets of guesthouses, cafes and tour desks, a beach with black volcanic rock along the shore, and jungle-covered hills behind. People come for the slow pace, the waterfall a short walk from town and the coves along the coast.

For anglers, Montezuma is a base rather than a port. There's no marina here, and the main beach is too rocky and exposed to keep sportfishing boats. Most fishing and island boats leave from Tambor's Bahía Ballena, a calmer bay about half an hour's drive north, and some small local boats launch from the beaches nearby.

Fishing from Montezuma

The waters off the southern Nicoya Peninsula fish well on both sides of the reef line. Inshore, around the rocks, islands and river mouths, the main prize is roosterfish, along with snapper, jacks, mackerel and snook. Offshore, 20 miles out and beyond, crews chase sailfish, marlin, yellowfin tuna, dorado and wahoo.

Montezuma Crew is a small outfit that runs both kinds of trip from the Bahía Ballena Yacht Club pier in Tambor on a 32-foot boat, along with dive trips and private island days. Inshore trips are usually half days in the morning, and offshore days start early and run most of the day.

Two rules to know before you go: Costa Rica requires a sportfishing license, and sailfish and marlin must be released. Any good captain will handle both.

Boat trips and snorkeling

Tortuga Island. The best-known boat trip from this part of the coast goes to Isla Tortuga, a pair of islands in the Gulf of Nicoya with white-sand beaches and clear water around the rocks. It's a snorkeling and dive spot, with reef fish, rays and white-tip reef sharks at some sites. Trips leave from Montezuma's beach, from Tambor and from Paquera.

Curú and Bahía Ballena. North of Tambor, the Curú wildlife refuge protects forest and beaches on the gulf shore, and some private boat tours stop at its beaches. Whales, dolphins and sea turtles are seen in the gulf at some times of year, though sightings are never guaranteed.

On land: the reserve and the waterfall

Cabo Blanco. Just south of Montezuma, past the village of Cabuya, the Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve covers the peninsula's tip. It was set up in 1963 after a campaign by Nicolás Wessberg and Karen Mogensen, who lived in Montezuma, and it was the first protected area in Costa Rica. A trail runs through the forest to beaches at the point. Check opening days with the park before you go.

The waterfall. The Montezuma waterfall is a short hike up the river from the edge of town. The trail is rocky and slippery, so wear shoes with grip, stay on the path, and skip jumping or climbing on the upper falls.

Santa Teresa and Mal País. Over the hills to the west, the surf towns of Santa Teresa and Mal País are a short drive away, if you want waves or a change of scene.

Getting there

From San José and the Central Valley, the classic route is to drive to Puntarenas and take the car ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya to Paquera, then drive south through Tambor to Montezuma. Small planes also fly from San José to Tambor's airstrip, which is about half an hour from town. Jacó and Montezuma are also linked by a passenger boat taxi across the gulf.

Roads around Cabuya and over to Mal País can be rough, especially in the rainy season, so a 4x4 is a good idea if you plan to explore. For the wider peninsula, see our guide to the Nicoya Peninsula.

When to go

The dry season, roughly December to April, brings the most sun and the calmest, clearest water for snorkeling. The rainy months from May to November are greener and quieter, with afternoon showers, and the fishing carries on all year. Offshore billfish numbers are higher in some months than others, so ask a local crew what's been biting.